2019, Bibi Graetz, Testamatta, TUSCANY20 year anniversary vintage at this brilliant 58ha estate, and it's hard not to love the complexity and the sense of controlled power. Raspberry, black cherry, butterscotch, truffle, scorched earth and slate, cleverly put together with clear confidence. So much happens after the wine has left your mouth it has a whole second act where much of the nuance appears. It's the detail that sets Testamatta apart with the team going through the vineyard up to

with a little vanilla from the oak playing at the edges

freshly rolled tobacco and smoke billowing from the glass

far removed from the occasionally opulent Larcis Ducasse of warming seasons

the medium to deep garnet-purple coloured 2016 Belair Monange comes strutting out of the glass like a total rock star with gregarious red cherries

12 barrels here

Barrel maturation should address that

raspberry and briary scents

plus hints of star anise

new leather and mocha are all amplified

restrained and airy nose offers up notes of red cherry

Decanter Magazine

milk and dark chocolate